TARGET 161207

THE HON KHOI
SALT FIELDS


The Hon Khoi Salt Fields are one of the most unique tourist destinations in Nha Trang, Viet Nam. Mounds of natural salt are manually harvested from shallow field ponds along Doc Let Beach.

The salt fields are large areas of ground slightly above the level of the ocean. The walls are at such a height that at high tide, the water flows over the wall onto the fields. But when the tide recedes, the water is trapped there. The water on the fields evaporates to a degree, leaving the remaining water saltier than before. Over the span of a year, the saltiness of the water gets so high that crystals of salt form and sink to the bottom of the ponds.

Once a year, laborers (mostly men) in Nha Trang come to the fields with long-handled scrappers and rake the salt into piles.

Collecting the salt into piles.

It is a massive job.

Once the salt is raked into piles, it is left for about 10 days, depending on the weather, in order for the salt that is above water level to dry out.


The tops of the piles are allowed to dry.

Once the tops of the piles are dry enough to harvest, "salt farmers", almost all of whom are women - usually middle aged - come, each person with two baskets.

The harvesters enter the field.

Each basket holds about 10 kilograms (22 pounds) of salt.

They pick a pile and load it into their baskets.

When the baskets are full, they carry them back to shore to be placed on an ever-growing mound of salt.

The mounds must grow higher instead of wider, so the women must climb to the top to dump their baskets.

The mounds of salt will be loaded into trucks for market.

The average workday is from 4AM to sunset every day. Human skin and lungs cannot survive this environment, so the workers wear plastic gloves and boots, a face mask to protect from the salt dust, and a conical hat to protect from the sun.

Once the mounds have been basketed up, the remainder is below water and will not dry.

So the remaining salt is again raked into new piles, allowed to dry, and the process starts again.

There is enough salt in these ponds to keep this process going from January through June of each year. Each year, the fields produce over 730,000 tons of salt, all harvested without the use of any machinery, totally through the hard labor of the "salt farmers". One might think that this labor is done by poor or transient people, but that is not the case. These are proud farmers who have held these jobs and these fields for generations. Wars and famines have come and gone, but the need for salt has never waned. They make a good living and are known to be very friendly and happy people who love the work they do and the product they produce.

At one time, the salt farmers produced all the salt used in Viet Nam.Now, however, mechanized salt production has dropped the use of their salt to about 30% of the country's needs. So, they work harder and longer hours, but still love what they do and are proud to say that they are harvesters of "the gift of the sea".

NOTE: The UK's Daily Mail ranked these fields as the 13th most photogenic place in the world, and it has become a magnet for tourists and photographers. The most photogenic times, of course, are morning and evening when the sun is low and more dramatic. Besides, during the warmer months, the mid-day temperatures can easily reach 40 degrees centigrade (104 degrees Fahrenheit). At any time, however, the workers are friendly and happy to pose for pictures, if you don't keep them from their work too long. They only speak their local language, so unless you speak their dialect of Vietnamese, there won't be any conversations or interviews.

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If you got impressions for which this feedback is insufficient, more information, pictures and videos can be found at the following web sites:

English Viet Nam web site
The Hanoi Times
Viet Nam Travel Blog
Asia Travel web site
InsightGuides.com
Discover Nha Trang web site (the city nearby)
The GoMadNomad web site
Waytogo.cebupacificair.com (probably the best video)
Vietnam-Guide.com



Many thanks to Ray McClure for this target.